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Everything posted by Leo
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Besides hunting and fishing, mostly this. [video=youtube;cUGVj2yP8S4]
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Thanks Steve! I remember Rilda being a good listener.
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Enjoy what my brother recorded today. [video=youtube;J62xIuYcqM4]
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I've got a Vizio too. It's the 1080p as well. Honestly, I didn't much care for the sound quality. So I bought a rca to 1/8" mini adapter and plugged some PC speakers into it. The Vizio has an option for turning off on board speakers and controlling auxiliary audio. The sound is freaking amazing with two PC speakers and a sub-woofer! A whole lot cheaper to go that route than buying a home entertainment sound system.
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Whatever TV you decide to get. Keep the receipt and packaging for the return duration the store allows (usually at least one month) after purchase! Even the "good" ones have a lemon or two in the mix. If you have a problem exchanging at the store is much easier to deal with than sending it in for service. Keep in mind a lot of the newer TVs take longer to power up than the old ones. So give it a chance to actually turn on before furiously pressing the power button trying to make it turn on. Stay away from the "i" models ie. 720i and 1080i. Go with 720p or 1080p. Without going into specifics a 720p is essentially twice as good as a 720i. If you are going to do any gaming on the set, get one with the highest refresh rate you can afford.
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The Whisker Biscuit question is a good one. They are tough on fletchings. Blazers seem to last longer through a WB. If you heat shrink tubing too long it gets brittle. It keeps trying to shrink as long as it is heated. Heat it too long and it will begin to pull itself apart. Good wraps make gluing fletchings on carbon arrows much easier. Carbon arrows actually have a mold release on them from the manufacturing process. This mold release interferes with several adhesives. The adhesive on wraps usually overcomes the effects of the mold release. Just make sure you roll the arrows on something hard after wrapping them. This insures you've broken the microspheres in the wrap adhesive that cause a full cure. The adhesive on wraps takes about 24hrs for a full cure on average. I like using Loctite Super Glue Gel for fletchings. I spread it on the base of the fletching with a toothpick. You really don't want a bead of glue on the base, just a thin coat enough to wet it. Too much glue makes a weaker bond not a stronger one.
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Are you running the right gauge and/or right kind of wire? Cheap thin fence wire can have too much resistance in it to allow much current. Be sure the ground wire isn't shorting between the unit and the rod. On many fence chargers that ground wire zaps things just like the main wire.
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Do you measure a charge going from the ground (literally the ground not the connection or terminal) and the fence wire? Some house grounds aren't very good. If it's not a short and you know the unit is working that might be the problem.
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WTG! That's a good one for sure!
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Got into them again today! Repeat of yesterday! I'm going home tomorrow morning so I won't get another crack at them at this spot for a while. Next weekend I'm out of South Carolina looking forward to Alabama's rifle opener. God willing my luck will hold!
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My wife and I tried for some inshore redfish this morning. Ended up catching 7. These were the three biggest slot sized reds for the day. (got to be 15 to 23 here). My wife took this picture of the biggest one. A lot of fun on spinning tackle! Don't feel so bad about not hunting today.
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This technique will also work in the spring, if your season starts in the spring early enough that the birds are still in flocks. Best re-assembly calls are a series of lost yelps (a series of five or six yelps in a row) and Kee Kee's with the same cadence.
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Your best chance at them after the shot was calling them back in to where you shot. When you scatter a flock stay put and start calling. You can't always reassemble the flock right there but this tactic does work frequently. If they like the area they will be back. Just as long as you are still finding fresh sign keep hunting there.
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Very nice! Congrats!
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The same applies to bows that have ridden in the belly of a plane for awhile. I've had both rifles and archery equipment arrive at the hunting location with the sights needing adjustment. You'd think bows are pretty much immune. For the most part they are but stuff still can happen when someone tosses that case around. I agree with Rhino, Cell phone coverage is an undependable thing in hunting country.
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Oh boy that was a close call! Glad you're ok Mike!
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Real challenging rack to score. It looks like two possible main beams on his right antler. One chosen as the primary main beam versus the other could change the score quite a bit. With two main beams you have two possible spread credits. Then you can't add more than the length of the longest main beam as a spread credit. This will also affect your circumference measurements on that side. Would I shoot him? Heck yeah! Awesome deer. But his score could vary a lot based on the opinions of the scorer. On racks like this, the current scoring methods don't do a very good job indicating how nice a deer this is.
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Sometimes you can't shoot them. Don't think your hunt is blown! A single snort and bolt doesn't ruin the hunt. Keep hunting. If the doe takes off snorting and then stops and snorts from one position a few times then answer her with a few snorts of your own. Deer only stop and snort from the same location when they believe they are safely away from the danger that spooked them. In effect they are spreading the news of where the safe zone is. If you answer a few times from the same location, the other deer in the area will think the danger lies somewhere between the two of you. Sometimes this pays off sometimes it doesn't.
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The air motor driving that jack is a reciprocating type cylinder motor. It won't chew through as much CFM as a vane type air motor. Minimize the stroke of the jack as much as possible to reduce the air volume requirement.
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Like the folks above are saying Your compressor volume capacity and horsepower is the problem. Especially when you are using compressed air to run tooling (in your case a press) the CFM (Cubic feet per minute) of air the compressor can produce becomes very important. Being able to produce a high enough operating pressure is only part of the equation. Unfortunately it's not as simple as selecting a compressor with a high enough pressure rating and high enough CFM rate. The reason is compressors produce their highest pressures at their minimum CFM. At the highest CFM rate they are producing minimum pressure. An accumulation tank will allow you to send air at the highest pressure at a higher CFM rate. Depending on how big that tank is and what the demands are on it will determine how many full strength cycles you will get on the press before the compressor struggles to recharge the tank. A larger tank will get you more cycles before it looses power but it will take much longer to recharge the tank. If you only need a few more cycles and have plenty of time for a recharge that might be the best solution. Otherwise a higher horsepower compressor and larger tank will probably be needed.
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I agree. I've shot plenty of deer with 180 gr bullets in a 308win and expansion is no problem with 180 gr Corelokt's. One of the most accurate factory loads I've ever shot in a 308Win is Federal's Vital Shock 165gr Sierra Gameking loads. Federal Premium - Rifle Details These bullets pack a blistering punch to boot. Side note: You may find out that the heavier bullets in the 308 are more accurate than the 270 at longer range. The 270 shoots flatter true but the heavier 165 and 180gr 308 bullets are less susceptible to wind drift.
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I realize in some locations and for some species it's legal to use a light when hunting. Don't know the rules where you are. If your primary purpose is night hunting. I would think a weapon mounted light with a remote tape switch easily activated on the weapon would be a better choice. There are small weapon mountable lights available nowadays that are even brighter than that particular streamlight. If you use it as a work light that you can leave pointed at an area while you work. You might want something with a less focused beam and more flood. Working under a spotlight isn't as glamorous as it may sound. That would probably be a good boat light. Plugged into the boats cigarette lighter socket, it would have practically unlimited runtime. You could probably identify landmarks a long way off with it.
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Very nice! Way to go!
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Got mine yesterday and the pneumonia vaccine today. I'm allergic to Levaquin and Cipro so I'd rather NOT get sick.
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I agree. An arrow that is too light will always be loud no matter what you do. The lightest you can shoot and stay in warranty with a 70lb bow is 350grains. A 350 grain arrow will make the bow shot loud! It will quiet down considerably with 400+ grain arrows. 450 grain is a good number for lots of bows with a 70lb draw weight.